In September, KitchenAid unveiled its latest addition to the Design Series: the Evergreen stand mixer. This standout model, marked by its matte army green finish and a striking brass attachment insert cover, includes a unique 5-quart pure walnut bowl. The bowl is sustainably certified under the European Union Timber Regulation, incorporating a luxurious touch along with its set of three steel accessories: a paddle, dough hook, and whip. However, the hefty price tag of $700—doubling that of the standard Artisan model—has stirred a mix of admiration and criticism among culinary enthusiasts.

Controversial Design Choice

While KitchenAid has a long-standing reputation for its dependable and aesthetically pleasing appliances, the Evergreen has sparked debate. It quickly caught the community's eye when initial stocks sold out within a week, despite its polarizing features. Critics, ranging from The Atlantic to The Washington Post, have labeled the mixer as a kitchen tool more suited for display than practical cooking. These critiques are primarily aimed at the wooden bowl design, with commentators describing it as an impractical aesthetic choice.

Usability Concerns and Maintenance Demands

The Evergreen's wooden bowl lacks a handle, deviating from the traditional stainless steel options, which proves cumbersome for some users when removing the bowl from its base. Additionally, the bowl requires immediate washing and drying post-use, with frequent seasoning using mineral oil or wood polish to maintain its condition.

Furthermore, this design poses specific challenges in baking tasks that require precision, such as whipping egg whites to the stiff peak stage. The seasoned bowl could potentially obstruct the process, a point that KitchenAid acknowledges in its guidelines.

Experience from a Home Cook

Exploring the practical side, one home cook, with extensive experience using KitchenAid mixers, embarked on a month-long test with the Evergreen. Utilizing it for a range of recipes from meringues to bread, the aim was to evaluate whether the bowl's stunning design hindered its usability or if it could still uphold KitchenAid's functional legacy.

Despite some drawbacks regarding the missing handle and bowl's upkeep, the essential capabilities of the mixer remained unimpaired. Yet, the truth emerged: the Evergreen might not suit everyone, particularly those who require the ease and speed of traditional mixers without these aesthetic-enhancing compromises.

KitchenAid's Evergreen model challenges the conventional balance of form and function, introducing a design that is arguably as beautiful as it is divisive. The appliance offers a conversation piece for those willing to invest in luxury kitchen visuals, making it both a status symbol and a practical tool, albeit not without its specific demands and limitations.

This review and its insights are based on content from Wired.